You don’t get a lush, green lawn by accident. It’s the perfect combination of regular attention, good timing and knowing what your grass really wants. This ultimate guide has all the information you need to grow a lush, vigorous lawn that increases your home’s curb appeal and property value.

So yard work is a 12 month, seasonal obligation. But once you get the basics down and develop good habits, keeping a nice lawn isn’t hard, and it’s so worth it!

Know Before You Grow: Learning About Your Lawn’s Base

Before you can get started with your lawn care maintenance regime, there are two things you need to figure out: what type of soil and grass do you have. These will dictate how you should care for your lawn year round.

Testing Soil is the Key to Healthy Lawns

Sturdy soil is the cornerstone of your unwavering lawn. So just as your body requires vitamins and minerals to work its best, your lawn needs the nutrients necessary to grow and thrive.

Soil-testing experts advise sending your soil to a lab every three years. You can even do a DIY soil test yourself at home to learn the crude nutrient levels in your soil.

Understanding Soil Types

The content of your soil will show you what kind it is, and this knowledge tells you when to water and aerate. Soil types The four most prevalent soil types are:

Clay soil is finest-textured and retains water like a sponge, so it does not require frequent watering. But clay soil packs down easily, eliminating air spaces for nutrients, water and oxygen to reach grass roots.

Coarse sandy soil drains rapidly because it is not compact. The open texture of the soil permits nutrients and oxygen to flow through it, but doesn’t hold water, so the cake needs more regular watering.

Silty soil: This type of soil is between clay and sand, containing medium sized particles. These soils transfer nutrients to plants roots better than clay, but can become compacted.

Loamy soil is the gold standard — a combination of clay, sand, and silt. It retains moisture but drains well, is naturally rich and easy to work.

If you have a larger lawn, you may have different soil types in various parts of it, so be sure to sample from multiple locations when you conduct your test.

The pH Sweet Spot

The majority of turfgrasses grow best in soil with pH levels between 6.0 and 7.0 (slightly acid). When your pH is not in that range, it tells you there’s a disease or nutrient deficiency, or that you are having water retention issues.

For those who do not have neutral soil, add lime to raise the pH if your soil is too acidic (right side of chart). If too alkaline (pH over 7.0), in the form of compressed sulfur, may be added as an amendment to the soil.

Identifying Your Grass Type

Knowing whether your lawn is planted with warm-season or cool-season grass is critical, because it shapes your entire care regime — from the best time to fertilize in spring and fall, to when you should overseed.

Warm-Season Grasses

If you live in the South, you likely have warm-season grass. This genus prefers 75-95°F growing temperatures. Warm season grasses commonly used are Bermudagrass, St. Augustine, Zoysia, Bahiagrass and Centipedegrass.

These grasses have deep roots and thick blades that they can survive drought. They thrive in the warm summer and become dormant when the winter temperatures drop below 65 F.

Cool-Season Grasses

Most northern lawns consist of cool season grass, which thrives at temperatures between 50 to 75°. Some of the most common cool season varieties are Kentucky Bluegrass, Tall Fescue, Perennial Ryegrass, Fine Fescue, Annual Ryegrass, and Bentgrass.

These types of plants flourish in the spring and autumn where warm temperatures are no longer the norm. They go dormant in smelly summer heat or when winter chills down.

The Transition Zone

Certain grasses do well in the transition zone between north and south, such as Zoysia, or Bermudagrass and Tall Fescue. A few homeowners in these areas grow both types of grass together.

Essential Tools & Equipment

Before you get started caring for your lawn, it helps to have the tools:

Lawn mower (a push reel mower if you have a small-to-medium yard- it’s low maintenance and good exercise)

Rake & leaf blower for leaves and for cleaning away debris

Spade, shovel and hand trowel: to work the soil

Hose with spray nozzle or sprinkler for watering the plants

Gloves and kneeling pad to protect

Fertilizer spreader (hand or push) to distribute evenly

Buy good tools, they last longer and work better. Keep your knives dry and away from moisture in order to ensure their longevity.

Core Lawn Care Fundamentals

So now knowing your lawn’s base, allow me to introduce you to the basic necessities that go into maintaining a lush-green lawn.

Smart Irrigation – The Life Source

The basics Proper watering is the key to a healthy lawn. Your lawn requires around 1 to 1.5 inches of water weekly, including rainfall. In cooler or wetter regions you can cut that by half and even more.

Timing Matters

If you’re going to water your lawn do so between 6 AM and 10 AM Water will have less of a chance to evaporate before reaching the grass this way. Links Use mulch around trees and shrubs to help slow down evaporation, but keep the mulch at least 6 inches away from stems or trunks of trees. Avoid watering during the hottest part of a humid day (10 AM to 4 PM) when evaporation is just going to be at its highest! Never water after dark—this encourages mold growth.

Deep vs. Shallow Watering

You have two excellent choices: Water deeply three times a week at 20 minutes each, or water deep once or twice weekly. Both methods help grass develop deep roots, which makes the grass more drought-tolerant. Frequent, daily, shallow watering keeps roots near the surface and results in wimpy grass with weak roots.

Regional Considerations

Watering needs vary depending on where you live. Regions that receive a lot of rain and have temperate weather need much less irrigation than desert areas or locales with blistering summer heat.

Use the “finger test” to water before you do. If it feels dry, water. If it’s still damp, wait.

Smart Technology

Culver recommends investing in sprinklers with timers or rain sensors. By adapting to the weather, these systems avoid oversaturation and save water — and money.

Mowing expertise While mowing is important to maintain a level height Crop length or height at cutting.

The cardinal rule for mowing: don’t remove more than a third of your grass’ height in one mow.

Why Height Matters

If you let your grass get too tall, it provides an opportunity for pests and fungi. Long clippings will not decompose properly and can suppress your lawn.

Mowing grass too short is just as bad. Scalped grass won’t be able to photosynthesize effectively, stunting growth of the roots and making it susceptible to pests and disease.

Ideal Mowing Height, by Type of Grass

Mowing Best Practices

Sharpen your mower blades once a year at the least. Dull blades fray and shred grass, leaving your lawn vulnerable to disease. A clean cut heals fast so sharp blades are ideal.

In the summer, set your mower to its top or second highest setting. Taller vegetation produces deeper roots and shades the soil, preventing water from evaporating.

Change up the direction you mow each week in order to avoid compacting soil and nudge grass to grow more upright. Grass Different rates of growth Grass grows at different rates |season. Warm-season grasses need more regular mowing in the heat of summer, whereas cool-season grasses require more maintenance during spring and fall.

Fertilisation: Feeding Your Lawn Source :Wikimedia Commons Your lawn needs to be fed.

Turfgrass requires three primary nutrients:

Nitrogen (N) Is the nutrient which supports leafy growth and beautiful green color

phosphorous (P) for root development

Potassium (K) plays a role in disease resistance and stress tolerance

So when you see fertilizer tagged 25-10-15, that means it contains 25 percent nitrogen, 10 percent phosphorous and 15 percent potassium. A laboratory soil test will tell you how much of these elements your lawn requires.

Timing is Everything

Grasses (cool season) Feed in fall and spring. Feeding the early spring growth to support the first season is good, but late summer to early autumn feeding is more important. If your lawn needs more than one application, then time them for September, November and either April or May in the spring.

Warm season grasses should be fertilized from mid-spring to summer when they’re actively growing.

2-4 fertilizer applications per year work very well on most lawns. Don’t over-fertilize—too many nutrients may stress your lawn, leading to iron chlorosis and root rot.

Types of Fertilizer

Foliar feeding With liquid fertilizer is easier and quicker to apply. Use a sprayer or attach the bottle to your hose. It’s pricier and could need to be applied more often.

Granular fertilizer releases nutrients over a longer period and is usually less expensive. But it can be difficult to spread and does not work as fast. Spread with a spreader for an even cover.

Organic fertilizers, like those made from blood meal, guano and other natural ingredients, are more costly but result in ha green thicker growth that helps to build up the soil over a period of time.

When shopping for fertilizers, find one with an N-P-K ratio that meets your lawn’s requirements, according to soil test results.

Weed Control – Prevention & Removal

Knowing what types of weeds believe and how to get rid of them is crucial when it comes to keeping your lawn in pristine condition.

Three Types of Lawn Weeds

Broadleaf weeds These have flat leaves with veins (dandelions, clover, chickweed)

Grassy Weeds: Long, slender leaves with veins running parallel to one another (crabgrass, foxtail)

Weeds that look like grass: Those weeds that resemble grass, but grow quicker into other colors (sedges, wild onions)

The Two-Pronged Approach

Pre-emergent herbicides stop weed seeds from sprouting. For cool-season grass lawns when soil reaches 58°F; for warm season lawns in late winter to the beginning of spring before seeds begin germinating.

Post-emergent herbicides: Unlike their burgeoning brethren, these bad boys target existing weeds. Apply during summer into fall when soil temperature exceeds 55°F. Selective : kill specific plants, while leaving others alone Non-selective : kill everything (herbicides)

Natural Weed Control Methods

There are a few natural options for those who prefer to stay away from chemicals:

Small populations may be hand-pulled

Homemade Vinegar Spray Homemade vinegar spray kills weeds upon contact and all it requires is a quick sheering of the eco-friendly product.

For spot treatment, pour boiling water over weeds.

Corn Gluten Meal serves as an all-natural pre-emergent herbicide

Let clippings fall in place; holds moisture and inhibits weeds seeds with mulch layer of grassQObject.prototype.getOwnPropertyDescriptors – Leave grass clippings to create a mulch layer blocking weed seeds from sunlight

— Water deeply to promote grass roots that penetrate deeper, meaning less room for weed roots

Before you purchase any herbicide, confirm it does target the lawn weed you have and understand if it’s a nonselective or selective herbicide.

Advanced Lawn Care Techniques

When you have got the basics down, these advanced approaches will take your lawn to a whole new level.

Aeration: Allowing Your Yard To Breathe

After years of use, soil gets packed down solid from compression, especially when heavily traveled. Aeration helps reduce soil compaction by pulling up small plugs of turf and soil from your lawn, allowing oxygen, water and nutrients to penetrate grass roots.

When to Aerate

In the case of cool-season grass lawns, early spring or early fall is the best time to aerate. Late spring through early summer is the time to aerate warm-season grass lawns.

Aerate your lawn at least once a year. If your lawn gets heavy foot traffic or people drive on it, consider aerating more often.

The Screwdriver Test

Not certain whether your lawn could benefit from aeration? Grab a screwdriver and stick it in your lawn. If it doesn’t, you’ve got loose soil that doesn’t need aeration. It is also known as the six-inch soil resistance probe for a simple reason: If it requires more force than normal to push one 6 inches into the ground, your soil is compacted and needs assistance.

How to Aerate

Run a core aerator — a machine that removes cores of dirt 2-3 inches long — over the lawn. One can be purchased or rented at most home improvement stores. After you aerate, shatter the cores and leave them on top of the soil to decay back into it.

Aeration a professional job generally costs $75 to $225, depending on yard size and the type of aeration performed.

Dethatching / Getting past the Barrier

Thatch is a layer of dead grass and organic matter that accumulates between soil and growing grass. A thin layer (no more than 1/2 inch) can even be helpful — it works into the soil as organic mulch, insulating grass roots and helping to retain moisture.

If thatch is allowed to accumulate too much it blocks water and nutrients from entering the soil, promotes pests and diseases, putting the lawn in an unhealthy state.

When to Dethatch

Before dethatching, measure your thatch layer height. If it’s over half an inch thick, it’s time to do something about your grease.

During early spring or early fall, cool-season grass lawns should be dethatched. Late spring to early summer is the best time to dethatch warm-season grass lawns; scalaGettyMore The best time to dethatch a warm-season grass lawn is in late spring or early summer. Most lawns need dethatching just once a year, if at all.

Which Grasses Need It Most

For instance, Kentucky Bluegrass and Bermudagrass tend to have thatch issues. Tall fescues and perennial ryegrass mixtures generally do not have thatch problems.

Overseeding: Patch up those Bare Spots

Overseeding means planting new grass seed into your existing lawn. It produces thick, dense turf that prevents bare spots and can even bring dead grass back to life.

Best Timing

30 Consider overseeding cool-season lawns with a good-quality grass seed in early spring or early fall during favorable weather for germination. Overseed warm-season lawns in late spring or early summer.

How to Overseed

The ideal time to overseed is right after you mow, dethatch or aerate the soil so that the seeds make it to the soil and germinate into grass.

Try to plant 15 to 20 grass seeds per square inch of lawn. Apply with a seed spreader for uniform coverage. Once it is all spread out, water the spot where you have distributed the salt once a day for at least one week and keep that area moist.

While grass is establishing, don’t get into new seeding areas. There are different types of grass, so different germination time frames could vary from a week to up to four weeks before you start seeing results.

 Fertilize or Overseed First?

If you have a healthy, thick lawn, fertilize it first to help give it a little extra push before overseeding. If your lawn is thin and weak, go ahead and overseed before fertilizing.

Sod as an Alternative

With sod installation you get a beautiful lawn right away! As with sod, you can plant grass seed anytime the ground is not frozen although mid or late spring works best for warm-season grass and early fall or spring works best for cool-season grass.

Bermuda sod is far more expensive than seed and a back-breaking DIY project. It takes a couple of weeks to “settle in,” needs quite a bit of water during establishment, and you can’t walk on it for at least two weeks after installation.

Spreading new grass seed is an easier and less costly solution for most beginners.

Fall’s Toughest Task: Leaf Control

Thick mats of moldy leaves block sunlight (preventing photosynthesis), invite pests and disease to take hold, and can smother the grass shooting up from below.

Efficient Removal Strategies

Simplify the job by splitting your prop­erty into sections and doing one at a time. Then rake with the wind — let gravity do its thing for you.

A leaf blower or leaf vacuum will save hours of back-breaking labor. If you’re using a rake (and handle), consider raking leaves onto the tarp to save yourself from constant bending.

If you can’t complete it in one go, stomp on the piles so they won’t blow away and return to build again the next day.

The Mulching Alternative

If you have a manageable amount of leaves, mow over them to cut them into tiny pieces. This allows you to create built-in mulch/fertilizer layer that will benefit your soil. Just don’t allow big clumps of wet leaves to sit for long periods, which can kill the grass below.

Seasonal Lawn Care Schedule

Sustaining lush, green lawns has everything to do with what time of year it is. Here’s what to do throughout the year.

Spring Lawn Care (March-May)

Spring is a dynamic season of transition (more so than any other time of the year), as your lawn awakens from its slumber and enters a phase of active growth.

Clean up your yard.  First, rake up leaves and dead grasses as well as debris. This clears the path for other lawn care tasks.

Test your soil. Use this time to test nutrient levels and pH before you begin your fertilizing spree.

Check your mower. Check that lawn mower works and is in reasonably good condition. Keeping the blades sharp will result in clean and not loose, shredded grass. Tune up your mower with a new air filter, if it needs one; replace the spark plug if necessary and fill the tank with fresh gas.

Aerate. Aeration reduces soil compaction and provides holes for air, water, and nutrients to penetrate grass roots.

Dethatch.  If your thatch layer is greater than ½ inch thick, use a dethatching rake to pull and tear it up.

Fertilize. Apply fertilizer to cool season grasses in early spring when growth begins. Warm-season grasses should be done in mid to late spring. If employing synthetic Try a slow-release fertilizer fertilizers, addition. Biological fertilizers produced green and thick growth.

Apply pre-emergent weed killer. Keep the weeds like crabgrass away by applying a pre-emergent herbicide when soil temperature is 58°F.

Treat for grubs. If grubs were an issue last year, treat cool-season grasses in late spring. Use chemical or organic treatments such as milky spore and beneficial nematodes.

Summer Lawn Care (June-August)

The most significant difference in cool-season and warm-season grasses comes in the summer.

Mow high. Set your mower on a high or the second-highest setting. Tall Grass = Stronger Roots = Healthy Lawn With the temperature in the 90s, my grass is up to my chin! “Make it three inches high” tall grass produces a stronger root system that allows your lawn to better compete against weeds. Never remove greater than one-third of the grass blade in any one mowing.

Water consistently. Both of these grass types need water consistently starting in spring and lasting throughout the fall. Cool-season grasses are typically thirstier than warm-season counterparts, with the exact amount and frequency depending on your grass type and local climate. Be careful not to overwater.

Control weeds. Annual and perennial weeds should be treated by post-emergent herbicides. These treatments are best applied in early summer. Some are selective to certain weeds, and others can harm surrounding grass. All instructions should be read and followed exactly.

Cool-season grass tip: These grasses become semi-dormant in the heat, so steer clear of any sort of perturbing tasks like heavy aeration or dethatching, the application of herbicides. Save those for spring or fall planting.

Warm-season grass care: Treat for grubs now to avoid damage later in the year. You may continue fertilizing now if you like, but be careful not to overfertilize; in doing so, you might unnecessarily stress your lawn and invite fungal disease. Replenish sections with bare patches; this is a good time to overseed and fertilize lightly.

Fall Lawn Care (September-November)

Fall is your chance to feed cool-season grasses and help all lawns recover from summer heat.

The most important time of year for cool-season grasses is the fall. 

Fertilize heavily. Feast the cool-season grass for a strong root system. Your lawn will stockpile the nutrients it needs as it becomes dormant over winter. This is the most important fertilization of all year long.

Aerate and dethatch. If necessary, perform these tasks in fall, when the soil is still warm and the grass is growing vigorously.

Patch and seed. Thinning areas or bear patches could have occurred due to the heat in summer. With cooler temps come patch some of these areas with seed to retain that thickness in your lawn. Loosen the soil with a hand trowel or spade, incorporate an inch of compost to provide nutrients, sow seed and rake it in. Put down a light layer of straw over freshly seeded areas to guard the seed. Water these areas more frequently — multiple mistings a day — until grass is 1 inch tall.

Mow shorter. As we get to late fall, an inch and a half or 2 shorter than you were during the summer. It keeps snow mold from forming in the colder areas. Falling leaves mat down shorter grass less successfully in warmer regions.

Manage leaves. Big clumps of wet leaves can smother grass, but mowing over fallen leaves leaves behind a natural mulch that adds nutrients to your soil.

For warm-season grasses, fall is prep work. 

Quit fertilizing by early fall to give grass time to harden off for the winter.

Do not aerate or dethatch, which will stress roots and diminish their chances for surviving winter.

Winter Lawn Care (December-February)

Lawns in winter can be at risk of long-term damage. Tender, dormant grass can wilt and die if soil becomes compacted beneath it.

Limit foot traffic.  Try not to walk on your lawn. Stay off it when you park, and avoid stacking anything heavy on it.

Melt ice carefully. If your lawn is icy, be sure to de-ice it in the recommended way. Employ ice-melting products labelled for use on lawns. Rock salt can really wreak havoc on your grass.

Prepare for next year. This down time is good for catching up on mower maintenance and stockpiling supplies (seed, fertilizer).

Pest & Disease Management

Now and then, even the healthiest yard has to fight pest, fungus or disease.

Common Lawn Pests

First the bad news: not all bugs are pests. There are some insects that your lawn needs and that the world is better off having. Never kill good insects like ladybugs, honey bees and butterflies.

Signs of Pest Problems

Watch for these warning signs:

• Wilted grass blades
• Discoloration
• Leaves “skeletonized” (all tissue eaten away but veins)
• Burrows or signs of digging
• More birds (they’re feasting on grubs)

Common Pests

Grubs Grubs are the milky white colored, C-shaped larvae of Japanese beetles. They graze on roots of grass, creating dead patches. If you have a cool-season lawn, apply the treatment in late spring; if you have a warm-season recipiendaire, do it in early summer. Options include chemical controls, as well as organic remedies like milky spore and beneficial nematodes.

General Pests: Aphids, chinch bugs and armyworms are other prevalent pests. Many also can be treated using neem oil or targeted pesticides.

Or if you prefer not to deal with pests on your own, you can call in professional pest control services.

Lawn Diseases

The majority of lawn diseases are fungal. Detect a Fungal Issue by Searching for:

• Yellowing grass blades
• Brown patches
• Dry patches that do not revive following watering

Areas of unhealthy (withered) grass surrounded by healthy-looking grass

The Best Defense

The most effective way to prevent the disease is practicing proper lawn care. Mowing the lawn correctly, aerating the soil and getting rid of plant debris can help control diseases in most instances.

If disease is a recurring problem despite good lawn-care practices, chemical fungicides can be an effective last resort. Focus first on prevention through:

• Proper mowing height
• Proper watering (neither too much nor too little)
• Good air circulation
• Balanced fertilization
• Removing plant debris

The healthier and thicker your lawn, the best natural protection you have against pests and diseases.

2025 Lawn Care Trends – The New & Green Way Of Giving Your Lawn A Hair Cut

Lawn care is evolving. Homeowners are becoming more conscious of being green, efficient and responsible.

Smart Lawn Technology

Technology is transforming the way we tend to lawns. In 2025, we have got increasingly democratized smart tools done and done:

Robotic mowers will deliver precision cuts without the waste and physical toll cutting your lawn can take. Many can be programmed to mow at set times of day, and they are much quieter than a gas mower.

App-controlled sprinklers, which allow for exact watering and can help cut down on water waste. A lot of smart systems adjust for changes in the weather, conserving water during rainy spells.

Soil sensors for precise fertilization that stops you from guessing when to feed and how much.

These features will help to minimize your environmental footprint while reducing electricity bills and saving time and effort.

Sustainable & Eco-Friendly Approaches

Making the move toward sustainability is one of the major trends in 2025 lawn care.

Native Grasses

Buffalo grass and Zoysia are quickly becoming the norm in green lawns. These are indigenous and drought tolerant, they grow well in local climate. It uses very little water and fertilizer which decreases its negative effect on the environment as well as contaminated premises fees.

Rainwater Harvesting

Water collection techniques and effective irrigation systems are at the forefront of water saving innovations. One of the most common mistakes people make in lawn care—overwatering—is something these systems help homeowners to eliminate.

Sustainable Watering Practices

The secret is deep, infrequent watering. This method will help the roots grow longer and stimulates healthier more drought tolerant grass.

Organic Lawn Care Products

Homeowners are using more organic fertilizers and pesticides, instead of harsh chemicals that can damage soil health and local wildlife. By composting your grass clippings with leaves, you allow them to become a natural source of nutrients that enrich the quality of your soil.

Low-Maintenance Zones

Replace parts of your lawn with alternatives such as gravel, mulch or groundcovers. These areas also decrease the amount of watering you need and make for less mowing, plus they add visual interest to your property.

Biodiversity-Friendly Practices

The 2025-approach to lawn care is centered on supporting local ecosystems.

“You could let a little strip of your lawn grow longer to support pollinators and small wildlife. Try interspersing wildflower patches or clover, both of which add nutrients to the soil and attract beneficial insects.

Incorporating these contemporary methods allows homeowners to enjoy lovely, environmentally-friendly lawns, that also minimize labor and the environmental footprint.

Mistakes to Avoid with General Lawn Care

Yet even seasoned homeowners commit these 7 common mistakes:

Watering incorrectly. Over-watering or under-watering may cause more damage to your lawn’s health. Always probe for moisture before watering, and water deeply less often rather than shallow and daily.

Cutting grass too short. Scalping your lawn will weaken the roots of the grass and make your turf more susceptible to pests and drought. When it comes to cutting, stick to the one-third rule and keep your grass at the right height for the type of turf you have.

Over-fertilizing. Overfertilizing can burn your plants and cause pollution. Follow package instructions carefully, and always test your soil before so you are adding only what is truly necessary.

Ignoring soil quality. If you skip the soil-test step, you’re guessing at what your plants are hungry for. Soil Test your soil every three years, amend it according to test results.

Wrong grass for your climate. Cool-season grasses will flounder in the hot Southern climate and warm-season grass in cold Northern climates. Or match the type of grass to your climate zone.

Using dull mower blades. Dull cutting blades rip the grass instead of making clean cuts therefore your lawn becomes more susceptible to disease. Sharpen blades at least once a year.

Timing errors. Fertilizing, aerating or overseeding at the wrong time is wasteful and can even damage your lawn. Know the growing season of your type of grass and plan tasks accordingly.

How Do You Know When to Hire a Professional Lawn Care Service?

Your lawn has the potential to be so beautiful and lush, but it involves a lot of work. There’s no shame in hiring it out.

Consider professional services when:

1. You are working or taking care of family all the time
2. You have many acres that you can’t afford to manage on your own
3. You have ongoing issues, such as continuing illness or an intense weed problem
4. You need specialty treatments such as aeration, grub control or disease management
5. You could think of better things to do with your weekends than tending to the yard

Standard professional lawn care services tend to involve routine treatments (usually 6-8 times per year), fertilization applications, weed control, aeration and overseeding, pest and disease treatment, as well as work in specific seasons.

The time and physical effort you save with professional upkeep tend to at least equal, if not exceed, the quality of a DIY cleaning on your part (if you’re new to it).

Quick Reference: Your Lawn Care To-Do List

Foundation Essentials

• Have your soil tested every 3 years.
• Identify Your Grass Type (Warm-Season or Cool-Season)
• Maintain pH between 6.0-7.0
• Have your tools ready before you begin

Core Maintenance

Watering

• 1 to 1.5 inches per week
• Water between 6-10 AM
• Watering deeply 1-2 times per week OR 3 x for 20 minutes
• Feel for soil moisture with the finger test

Mowing

– Do not remove more than 1/3 of the blade height at a time.

• Mow at the right height for your type of grass
• Sharpen blades annually
• Vary the direction of mowing every other week
• Mow higher in summer

Fertilizing

Cool-season: Spring and fall

Warm-season: Mid-spring through summer

Be used 2-4 times per year as determined by soil test

Liquid, granular or organic depending on your needs

Weed Control

Pre-emergent: Apply in the spring when soil is at 55-58°F

Post-emergent: Use in the summer to the fall

Think about natural alternatives for all that which doesn’t have chemicals

Thick, healthy grass is the best weed prevention

Advanced Maintenance

• Aerify during growing season (at least once per year)
• Dethatch if layer is more than 1/2 inch
• Overseed to thickens empty areas (15-20 seeds per sq.In )
• Rake or mulch leaves in autumn

Seasonal Priorities

Spring:

cleanup, soil testing, lawnmower sharpening, fertilization and pre-emergent weed control, aerate and dethatch lawn (cool season), Grub protection.

Summer:

Mow high, be consistent with your watering, weed control post-emergent, watch for pests, combat grubs (warm-season)

Fall:

Fertilize Cool season heavily, overseed and patch, aerate/dethatch cool season grass, mow lower, leaf management, stop fertilizing Warm Season

Winter:

Restrict foot traffic, apply lawn-safe ice melt, winterize equipment, prepare for spring.

Problem Management

Pests:

Protect the good bugs, look for damage, treat grubs when appropriate, seek professional assistance if infestation is severe

Diseases:

Fungal, mostly, good care is best prevention; improved air circulation and drainage; fungicides as a last resort

Modern Approaches

Smart tech: robotic mowers, app-enabled sprinklers, soil sensors

• Drought-tolerant native grasses
• Rainwater harvesting systems
• Organic fertilizers and pesticides
• Low-maintenance zones

Biodiversity boosts: wildflowers, clover, longer grasses

Growing a Lawn That Will Make Your Neighbors Envious

A beautiful lawn doesn’t happen by itself, it’s an ongoing affair that rewards heading in the right direction. Begin with the essentials: know your soil and grass type, water correctly, mow to the proper height and fertilize when needed. When you are ready, try more complex processes such as aerating, dethatching and overseeding.

Consistent sensible care over a 12 month period goes a lot further that sporadic hard work. Whether you plan to mow and maintain your own lawn, or hire professional garden services, having a working knowledge of these basic steps allows you to make informed choices on how best to maintain the health and beauty of your lawn.

Armed with the information in this guide, you’re ready to create and keep a lawn your neighbors will envy.